Sunday, January 17, 2010

From Sea to Summit

After four days of underwater mapping around St. Kitts, we decided to take the “day off” and hike to the top of Mt Liamuiga, the highest point (3,800 ft) on the island. When the English colonized St Kitts, they named it Mount Misery, but the name has reverted to its indigenous name. Even though it hasn’t had a major eruption for over 1600 year, most locals still won’t hike it, fearing it will erupt.

We were fortunate enough to have Conrad, a local yoga-master and nature-lover, as our guide. We left early and drove up to the trail head, past the sugar cane fields of Kittitian Hills, a future development planned on the northern slopes of the island. As we made our way up to the rain forest, I was surprised at the massive size of some of the banyan trees found along the path, some of which must have been well over 100 years old. Conrad pointed out the sarsaparilla trees which he collects the roots for brewing up a local drink. He has been climbing this mountain for years and shared island legends and stories of lost hikers.

After about two hrs of scrambling over the slippery rocks and roots, we finally reached the summit, rewarding us with a brisk wind and stunning views of St Eustatia, Saba, St Martin, St Barts, and Anguilla in the distance. The jagged crater rim is a half mile across, carpeted with dense forest cover on the sides and small intermittent lakes on the crater floor. The chattering of a troop of vervet monkeys could be heard in the trees nearby. Conrad invited us to follow him down the steep inner crater trail which descends 900 feet to the bottom. Ropes were needed for parts of the trail which descended over rock walls, but we finally made it to the bottom, taking in the 360 degree view. After having lunch in the shade, we explored the east side of the crater, a maze of steaming fumaroles and sulfur smells. Just a matter of time and this slumbering giant is going to wake up.

On the trip back down, we discussed with Conrad some of the modern problems facing the island – rising crime, emerging gangs, growing debt, and deteriorating ecosystems due to uncontrolled development and overfishing. Like other Caribbean nations, the country is at a cross road and must make important decisions about sustainability and the future they are going to pass on. Hopefully the zoning plan we develop together will inspire momentum in the right direction.



Conrad gives a nature lesson deep inside Liamuiga's crater 

Hiking inside the crater - Liamuiga's highest point in the distance

Exploring the fumaroles

Since it's the dry season, the lakes in the crater are small and intermittent. At the end of the wet season, the entire crater floor can fill up with water.

We lucked out with a clear view from on top - St Eustatia and Saba in the distance.

Mission accomplished - enjoying the view from 1,000 meters up

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